Hello everyone!
Today’s post is a sum of oddities. It is about a somehow odd watch, which I have oddly owned for more than two years without reviewing it, even though I oddly love it. I thought these odd times of Covid confinement would be the perfect odd opportunity to get done with it. Without further odd delay, let us get straight to it!
Today’s watch is an Eterna Kontiki. At this stage, you should be thinking “But there’s nothing odd about a Kontiki, you freaky freak!”, and you’re wrong! This is not just any Kontiki. It is a 1580.
What is the 1580?
I like to compare it to the Ferrari 356GT4 2+2. Everyone knows the brand “Ferrari”. And yet, nobody remembers the 356GT4 2+2 ever existed; that is how much it failed. Sure, it was a Ferrari, with all the mechanical qualities of one. But its design never picked-up. The 356GT4 2+2 was nonetheless produced for a staggering 17 years, the longest ever produced Ferrari model, while Eterna was realistic enough to stop the 1580’s production in much less. So why the resemblance? We will get to it, just keep the Ferrari 356GT4 in mind when you read the conclusion of this review!
“Kontiki” is a line of watches rather than a specific model in the Eterna line-up, just like “Presage” for Seiko. Many models of different styles fall under this “brand”. While the most famous ones have the distinctive triangular indexes at 3,6 and 9, some Kontikis like this 1580 have completely different design cues.
Yes, it is still a dive watch. But this is where commonalities end. At 39mm wide, its case is much smaller than the currently available smallest Kontiki – which comes at 42mm. Its amazing stainless-steel bezel and overall brushed finishing gives it a tooly look from a distance. Yet, when looking closer at this watch, one may realize that its dial could have belonged to a dress or pilot watch simply by changing its printed texts and removing its small yellow accents. As such, despite its tooly case and bezel, I qualify the 1580 as a “classy diver watch”.
What I love about it
Perfect case proportions: Most Kontikis come in sizes of 42mm and above. This is not a bad thing for most people, as diving watches are meant to be large, chunky and readable. It can however be an issue for people with smaller wrists, or people with regular wrists who are looking for versatility -something they can dress either up or down- .
I have a small wrist so the 39mm of the 1580 sit right on my sweet spot. I unfortunately do not have a measuring tool and the documentation on this model is non existing online, so I can only wild guess its other measurements. The lugs of the watch are relatively long, so I would guess the lug to lug to be around 47 or 48 mm long. The height of the watch is reasonable and seems to be somewhere between the 10mm of my Stowa Flieger and 14 of my Sumo, so it should be around 12 mm, with a lug width of 20. 39-40/47/12/20 ring like magic numbers to my ears, and it shows in the marvellous wear comfort of this watch.
Fantastic case finishing: the case is mostly brushed, with some polished bevels to better catch the light. Everything is very well executed, and the overall fit and finish of this watch feel a good step above what I got used to with brands like Seiko, Glycine or NTH. We are clearly talking about a higher tier watch, and it shows!
Attention to details on the dial: the dial design is as classic as can be, but its execution makes it one of a kind. Its external ring is matt black for better readability of the very well finished index inserts, while its centre part has thin stripes that remind of an old vinyl disc when looked at closely. The date window is not negative to match the dial, but this is done to improve the dial’s symmetry, as the window totally replaces the 3 o’clock index. The dullness of the black dial is broken by discreet yellow accents on its lower writings and external minutes ring. The hours and minutes pencil shaped hands are superbly polished and lumed in their centre, while the seconds arrow hand shines with the same yellow as the one used on the dial. Again, the design is as classic as can be, but its execution flawless.
The best bezel I have owned: this both from a visual and action standpoint. I am a sucker for stainless steel bezels, and the execution of this 120 click one keeps me in awe. Its markings are so deeply engraved, and its paint so well applied that they look like new 15 years down the road. Its polished external dents make a good contrast with the rest of its brushed surface and catch the light easily. Its action is the best I have felt so far, precise and direct, with zero back play once in place. My only complaint is that it is not very grippy, thus probably not the easiest to turn wearing diving gloves.
A well finished and comfortable bracelet: the super-oyster that comes with the watch is very well designed and executed. All its links are fully articulated making for a great wrap on the wrist. Again, I do not have a measuring tool, but it seems to taper to 18mm at the buckle. The 20mm buckle is as old as the watch, so it doesn’t have all the bells and whistles such as gliding extensions that modern watches provide, but its execution is, once again, great, and its locking mechanism feels sturdy and reassuring 15 years down the road.
A sort of “in house” workhorse movement: the Kontiki 1580 runs on an ETA 2824 movement. While this is the standard workhorse movement produced by Swatch and used on most watches of this price tier, it “feels” a little different on an Eterna, as the company created ETA and its main movement bases before handing this part of its business to Swatch in 1978. It will not cost an arm and leg to service, as every watchmaker out there knows how to work on it and has the required spare parts in stock.
What I’m less a fan of
I have to be nit-picky on this section, as there is nothing to dislike objectively about the 1580 really, that’s how well its execution is. If I investigate subjective considerations however, I can mention the following:
Too classic for a diver? the place dive watches have in one’s collection varies from people to people. Some only own divers, so they need to have some that are more versatile to wear on weekdays, and others that are more colourful or flashy to wear on weekends or during sunny days.
I personally enjoy collecting watches of different kinds: I own a couple of dressier pieces, a Flieger, 3 divers, am looking into a chronograph, etc. With such a diverse collection, each watch comes with a specific purpose, and divers are for weekends. I therefore enjoy some eccentricity in them, which the Kontiki 1580 does not provide at all. If you are looking for some funkiness in your divers, the 1580 is not for you. But if you are looking for a versatile watch, you should consider this one – if you can put your hands on one that is!
A watch that is not sure of what it wants to be: this is where I am falling back on my comparison with the Ferrari 356GT4. It was a Ferrari and a family vehicle at the same time. While the Maranello manufacturer thought versatility when designing it, its buyers saw something that sat in between two chairs. If one has the money to buy a Ferrari, he/she surely has some cash to spare for a nice BMW or Mercedes sedan to use with the family. So why buy a car that is less sporty than a sportscar, and offers less space/luxury than a sedan? The Kontiki 1580 seems in the same situation, which could explain why it did not sell that well. Its chunky crown-guards, thick stainless-steel bezel and 300 metres of water resistance place it in the “diver” category. But its size of 39mm, coupled to the classic design and nearly too good execution of its dial (polishing on the inserts, etc…) give it attributes that make it too classy to be a fun weekender.
To conclude
As such, the Kontiki 1580 is not a watch one instantly falls in love with when looking for a diver; it took me a good 6 months of wearing and close observation to fully understand the taste and value of it. Now that I am hooked to this slow-burner, I cannot imagine ever letting it go, particularly as with its assembly in 2005, it is my daughter’s birthyear watch. With its reasonable size, it is one I will be happy to pass on to her in 3 years once she turns 18. In the meantime, I will continue wearing it as much as possible, so that she can see it on my wrist all the time and remember me when wearing it later.
Beyond this sentimental bond, the 1580 really is a fantastic watch if it can find a space of its own in your collection, which is not a given. I feel sad it got discontinued all together. With this case, bracelet and bezel, Eterna was close to a homerun. All it missed was a funkier, sportier, dare I say “manlier” dial to become a hit. I feel they should have tried a few more variations before giving up on it. If I were a microbrand owner, I would take this case/bezel combination, make it 39.5 or 40mm large and have a go at redesigning its dial.
This is all for today. When the Covid lockdown allows, I’m due to get my hands on a Mido Ocean Star Tribute in blue, a vintage Seiko 5 from 1974, and a LED Orient from 1976. More reviews to come then, but as usual I’m not sure when. Thanks a lot for taking the time to read this, and have a great one until next time. Stay safe!
Small Toys for Grown Men 
I have the exact same watch bought new in 1990. Worn it almost every day since, it’s been with me through demanding conditions. If comparing to a car it must be an old Porsche, totally robust, but elegant and distinctive.
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Thank you very much for that detailed review. Got recently the same model in a unworn condition, very nice made and not too large (compared to current 44m size line)! It’s ETA movement sill runs perfectly.
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